One Night in Tarapoto, 29-30/10 20225
29 October — Wednesday
One night in Tarapoto makes a hard man well rested.
When the bus from Chachapoyas arrive in Tarapoto — the city of Tuk-tuks, apparently, or motor taxi as they call them here — again late, I walk around the city looking for the collectivo going to Laguna Azul and Yurimaguas. To be sure to make it to Iquitos in time to my flight departing 4 November, I only have time to spend one night in the area around Tarapoto.
I decided to go to the famous Laguna Azul where I will walk around, swimming and take some much needed sleeping — I’m hoping the lakeside hotel I have found will be nice and quite so I actually get to sleep for an entire night the first time in a week or so.
After yet again another scenic drive I’m in Sauce, the little town located at Laguna Azul. From here it is about a 30 minute walk to the hotel I have booked.
30 October — Thursday
The collectivo back to Tarapoto departs at 08:00. They are performing construction on the road and apparently it is only open for traffic between 09:00 to 09:30 so 08:00 is the only time available.
As the road open, Mad Max: Fury Road begins. There is wide variety of vehicles, dirt bikes, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, cars, lorries, etc., all racing for a spot on the first ferry crossing. Absolute mayhem for a road.
In Tarapoto I walk a whole 10 meters to the next collectivo taking me Yurimaguas. They drive like shit in Peru, that is just a fact, but I have never felt unsafe until now. The driver commits overtake after overtake, each more dangerous than previous. And as I have already said in previous posts, literarily no vehicle has working seat belts.
In Yurimaguas I ask around for the cargo boat going to Iquitos. I found one named Eduardo in Puerto La Boca. Transport, food, water and a hammock for sleeping in costs 200 soles. The bottom floor is for cargo and the top floor is for passengers. All cargo is loaded by manual labour. They walk back and forth on a wooden plank, not very efficient. And with the current progress I doubt we will depart at 18:00 as said. All left to do now is wait.
For any potential readers interested in going to Tarapoto. There is much to do and see. I, for example, was very interested in hiking in the Coordillera Escalera nature reserve. I simply did not have time as I have a plane to catch.