Costa Rica Road Trip Part 2 — Volcanoes and Cloud Forests, 14-16/11 2025

14 November — Friday

Today we will visit the Reserva biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde. Monteverde is famous for its cloud forests. The reserve has a decent network of trails, but I would not have minded a longer more proper trail. Someone told me that only 2% of the reserve is open to the public, so there is definitely room for a proper round loop.

We decided to hike every single trail and extra meter possible, kept us busy for most of the morning. I had no high hopes of spotting much wildlife, but I had expected to at least hear many more birds. Maybe it was a slow day.

Monteverde is also famous for its suspension bridges. Everyone of the many parks in the area supposedly has one or several. The reserve only had one, and I do not really understand what is so magical about them.

The Monteverde reserve offered some nice and pleasant hiking, and is a good way to experience the unique cloud forest. It was well worth a visit. The best part, in my opinion, was to experience the very distinct rays of sunshine entering the few open spots in the otherwise extremely dense canopy.

After the visit to Monteverde we drive to La Fortuna. Tomorrow we will visit the nearby national park Volcan Arenal.

15 November — Saturday

Another day, another national park. The Volcan Arenal National Park is home to the Arenal Volcano. We saw it yesterday when driving to La Fortuna, and it was magnificent (google it). Today, however, it was shrouded by the clouds.

The park has a few short trails. It is a bit same same as Monteverde, but with much more colorful birds. The trail leading to the crater sadly closed a couple of years ago.

We then continue to another national park. Juan Castro Blanco National Park, also home to volcanoes. The last section to the park is a steep climb where we drive through the clouds/fog to emerge in world of sunshine. The actual park is not much to see. The visitor center at first seemed empty, but after a while I found two teens, that apparently was responsible, hiding in the back. They told me that currently there was only one trail, a 300 meter loop. I’m somewhat disappointed. There might be another visitors center to Juan Castro that offers more hiking.

While we are eating a late lunch at the visitor center, we are joined by a hummingbird, a Rufous-tailed hummingbird if I’m not mistaken. Hummingbirds are one of my favorite bird species and enjoying the sights of one up close (less than half a meter) while eating lunch made the visit well worth it.

Then we are off to the next National park, the Poas Volcano.

16 November — Sunday

I awoke at dawn to utilize the perfect opportunity the hotel offers for bird spotting right on the porch. I managed to spot a great variety of species, including a group of five hummingbirds.

Online, at the official government website, it says that the visit to the Poás Volcano crater is limited to 20 minutes due to the dangerous gases, and you are not allowed to visit by yourself, a guide supplied by the visitor center is required. Additionally it says that all other trails are closed, a sign at the entrance repeats this.

None of the above turned out to be true in practice. There were no guides taking groups to the crater, you were allowed to visit by yourself and no time restrictions were enforced. In addition, the trail leading to lake Botos was not closed so we hiked it. The visit turned out better and than expected.

After our visit to the Poas Volcano, we drive towards Cahuita/Puerto Viejo and the Caribbean coast.

First impressions, the Caribbean coast is more beautiful and accessible than at the Nicoya Peninsula. And the ocean is warmer. We will see what the following days has in store.

Before the darkness falls, I go for a beach run to enjoy the sunset and I’m lucky enough to spot a Capybara.