The Greater Patagonian Trail Section 06, Descabezado, 12-16/12 2025

Greater Patagonian Trail (GPT) Information

Let’s start with some Greater Patagonian trail (GPT) backstory. The GPT is an unofficial hiking and pack-rafting network that runs through Patagonia from Santiago de Chile all the way down to Tierra del Fuego. With all available hiking options to choose from the trail network spans about 5000 kilometers.

It is a non-profit project that was started in 2014 by Jan Dudeck and has since been extensively documented by Jan and his wife Meylin Ubilla. As Jan describes it, the GPT aims at being an immersive experience by taking hikers deep into the Patagonian wilderness. More information can be found in Jan’s very comprehensive GPT manual.

Obtaining access to the GPX files, containing all routes and informational markers, requires diligently reading the GPT manual and having a one by one consultation with Jan, whereafter Jan will send you the GPX files. For more information and inspiration one could also apply for access to the Facebook group.

I will more or less completely follow Jan’s route suggestions, with a few additions of my own. Mostly I will also follow the regular route and only a few additional options or side routes here and there. My routes will be available at the end of every post.

My initial intention is to hike section 06 to 15. I doubt I will be able to make it in one go, it depends on the resupply possibilities along the trail. Most likely, I will have to make my way to a larger town one or two times to resupply. Boring parts of these sections I intend to hitchhike my way through. For example, section 13 and 15 are mostly transport sections running on major roads.

12 December — Friday

Touchdown at 05:30 local time. Ah, some sweet moderately temperatured air at last. Somewhat surprisingly Chile is 3 hours ahead of Costa Rica, I did not know that. I’m tired but I’m finally in Chile. I have but one purpose here, immerse myself deep into the wilderness and hike till my feet won’t carry me anymore, or until I go back to Sweden on the 21st of January, you know, whatever comes first.

The airline company (Avianca) gave me hard time yesterday when boarding because they wanted to see proof of onward travel. Knowing that Chilean border control does not require proof of onward travel for entry, at least not according to the official government websites, I decided to argue with the airline company. I had onward travel, my ticket back to Sweden, but it pisses me off that the airline company tries to enforce their own incorrect immigration policies. Just bugger off!

But I was right, Chilean border control did not require proof of onward travel. After clearing immigration without any issues, I make my way to downtown Chile in search for some new hiking poles and other equipment.

I found everything I require, stock up on food, become a Chilean cash millionaire — Banco International is best for cash withdrawals as it seems to be the only bank that does not add extra fees — and proceed by making my way by bus to Talca. In Talca I spend the night at a hotel before starting the adventure tomorrow morning.

13 December — Saturday

Today my GPT adventure starts. I have decided to start my GPT adventure with section 6, traveling southbound, and then continue onwards on section 7, 8, and so on.

Section 6, the Descabezado area, runs through supposedly breathtaking beautiful lands, but it is privately owned by Don Victor and his family. To gain access you have to contact Don Victors daughter, Tamara, and apply for access, and if granted pay a symbolic administrative fee of 25 000 CLP — I payed using Caja Vecina, which was very easy and straightforward.

The permissions is not for economic reasons, it is to control/know who enters the lands as Don Victor’s wants to persevere the natural beauty. Previously, when access was free, there unfortunately was a lot of problems with littering.

The approval process has however not been a streamlined process, when she finally gets going Tamara is extremely helpful and accommodating. But, for some reason I did not understand, the Corporación Nacional Forestal (CONAF) is also part of the approval process and they seem to have a giant stick up their collective asses. They have added requirements such as minimum three people and being accompanied by a certified guide. HERE is the official document that must be signed, for anyone interested.

Up until yesterday it was still unclear whether I would obtain approval or not, and I would of course never hike without approval, no way, not me, never! Anyway, as I finally obtained approval — Tamara basically overruled CONAF, because I was a bit persuasive in a good way — I can now start my GPT adventure as originally planned. Well almost.

I wanted to start via Parque Ingles but the Bolson trail and Camp Bolson is closed until further notice and it is unclear whether CONAF will allow you to enter using parallel routes — I emailed with CONAF asking for an indication on opening date and whether I was allowed to hike on the parallel road and connect to the Circuito Condor after Camp Bolson, their answers were less than helpful to say the least. Instead I entered via the Lircay Altos reserve.

I took the 7:15 bus from Talca to Alto Vilches and hiked to the ticket booth. There I was immediately stopped by no less than six CONAF rangers asking to see my permission from Tamara — my big pack is a dead give away — which I gladly showed them. What followed was a long discussion among the rangers. A few seemed quite annoyed that Tamara had given permission to a solo hiker and tried calling here several times, to no avail. The others seemed more relaxed with a “let the man hike” mindset. 

After about half an hour, and after an inspection of my kitchen, I’m allowed to continue given that I don’t end through Parque Ingles as the Bolson trail is closed, and that I do not camp inside the reserve. I also have to notify CONAF once I exit the area.

Finally I can start hiking. I follow the reserve trails for a while before leaving the trail cutting across the mountains on horseback trails towards Camp Bolson. While I hike the weather takes a turn for the worse. I feel a storm is brewing and I decide to bunker in early. I’m also exhausted from the lack of sleep the previous days.

14 December — Sunday

After a very cold night — do I need a new sleeping bag? — I awake to thick fog and rain, and I decide to wait a few hours to see if conditions improve. After a couple of hours the rain stops and I start hiking. The visibility is still low and it is not easy to follow the trail in these conditions, I rely heavily on my GPS.

When I start the descent towards Camp Bolson the fog starts to clear a bit, and I can sense that sun is slowly chipping away at the clouds. In fact, the weather keeps improving throughout the day.

To avoid the risk of running into any CONAF rangers at Camp Bolson I take an alternative route around the CAMP, which requires much bushwhacking. They have surprisingly thick vegetation in some places here in Chile. Having made the detour I connect with the Circuito Condor and the regular route of the GPT06.

The weather keeps improving and I’m mesmerized by the share beauty. I’m loving every step I take.

After the initial climb the landscapes transforms to volcanic sand. It is the first time I have hiked in volcanic sand. At some times it is one step up, two steps down.

On the Gaia GPS map I consulted when planning my hike, there are some hot poles along the trail which I’m of course is interested in. They were not hard to find, you could smell the sulfur from a mile away. It was a very intense smell. Given the smell, I decide that I cannot stay here, I have to push on. You could not exactly bath anyways.

I continue hiking, now climbing again, in the volcanic sand. It is not to easy to find a good camp spot. After a while I find a good, dry, and relatively flat patch of grass among all sand and I decided to stop for the night.

15 December — Monday

Another very cold night. It is not a problem, I have more clothes to put on, but when I get back to Sweden I will seriously consider a warmer sleeping bag. Mine is currently rated comfort 1 degree Celsius, and that was when it was new, and the last two nights have been below freezing. On a very positive note though, the morning is perfect! Sunny and clear skies. Here we go.

It feels like walking in desert, but with snow and water. The blistering sun adds to that feeling given that the sand is highly reflective. Should maybe have packed more sun screen. This is also slightly how I imagine walking on the moon is like.

Inspired by the unbelievable scenery, I just keep on hiking. I’m loving every second of it, except for the part of my shoes constantly filling up with sand.

At Don Victor’s puesto no one is at home. He does not seemed to have moved up here for the season yet, a theory strengthened by the fact that I did not see any cattle during my hike. Must say that I’m a bit jealous over his little love shack. Imagine constantly living with these views, it is not be taken for granted.

In the Descabezado area there are two impressive and prominent peaks, the Descabezado Grande and Volcan Azul. Most of the day I hike with these spectacular mountains in view.

It is a long day constantly hiking in Volcanic sand. But it cannot be repeated enough, I love this. I live for this!

I continue hiking to Laguna la Turbia where I make camp for the night at the shore. It takes some time, and many rocks, pitching the tent in the sand, but it is worth it for the views and the surprisingly warm evening swim.

I think I can honestly say that this was the best day of hiking in my whole life. The only negative comment I have to make is that I will finish this GPT section tomorrow. Seriously thinking of coming back here already, in the future, and hike some alternative routes. I can’t wait to see what else Patagonia has in store for me.

I seem to have a bit of a battery problem. My solar panel most have given up during the last days in Costa Rica. Looking at it positively, that makes my pack 121 grams lighter. The other problem is that the power-bank I bought in Santiago just went from 50 to 0 % just like that. Feels a bit ominous. The third problem is that I’m fairly sure that my phones battery has started to degrade just now. Given these issues I will be forced to stay the night at a hotel or camping within 5-6 days to recharge batteries given that I rely heavily on my phone and Garmin GPS for navigation. Purchasing any new equipment will most likely require traveling to a major city. We are talking minimum two days back and forth. For now I rather just stay at a campsite or cheap hostel a few times along the trail. However, my imagined dreams of the occasional tent movie night is now more or less shattered.

16 December — Tuesday

Last day in this magnificent environment! Finally a warm and pleasant night. As most often as the dawn breaks, the climb starts. It is a long and grueling climb in loose volcanic sand.

The heat is really strong today, it is scolding, I’m consuming a lot of water. If this heat continues, I might have to rethink my current position on not carrying more than 1.5 Liters at any given time.

I proceed by making my way to the dirt road that will take me to the hydroelectric dam that I will cross to get to Los Alamos, where I will complete this section.

The security officer at the dam is the first person I have meet, or even seen, in over three days now. The last time I saw a person was in the Lircay Alto reserve at around 11:30 on the 13th of December. It is a unique feeling being completely and truly alone for so long, without any connection to the outside world at all. The officer lets me pass and I walk to Los Alamos and check in the resupply location (Familia Osses Torres) indicated on the GPT track files. It is a limited resupply, but they have three out of the five most quintessential stables of life: eggs, butter, and cheese, only missing beef and avocados.

For dinner I eat, you guessed it, eggs, butter and cheese with some heart palms, bananas and peanuts. And I stock up on food for the next day to stretch my supplies — I’m guessing I now have food for another five days — and wouldn’t you know it, tomorrow I’m eating eggs, cheese and butter, and tuna, peanuts, and some quinoa. Other than the items I have mentioned they mostly sell sugary or ultra-processed foods. Not being able to resupply properly might also be a reason I’m forced to leave the mountains and go a major town, we will see, for now I’m good.

They also offer accommodation for the meager price of 10 000 CLP which I decide to take to charge up all my batteries. It is a very nice place. Their garden is full of lambs, chickens, cats and dogs. I highly recommend a stay here if in the vicinity.

Tomorrow I will try to hitchhike to Laguna de Maule, to avoid some asphalt transport, and embark on GPT07. Stay tuned!

Can’t say anything other than this being a perfect start to my Patagonia adventure and GPT journey so far. My hopes for the continuation are high.

My Route With Campsites