Surfing in Huanchaco, 14-21/10 2025

14 October — Tuesday

After a good night sleep, which included many mosquito bites — the hostel has a bit of a mosquito problem — I’m ready to surf! And this time I will try to not repeat my mistake from last time.

I had booked a group session, but I was the only one to show so it became a private session. My tutor is a local, born and raised, called Juan, and he is an excellent teacher. As I found out later he is also a professional surfer ranked second in Peru.

We went to Playa Huanchaco to surf and immediately, due to Juan’s excellent instructions, I’m catching wave after wave. This is fun! Although we are playing with baby waves today. I also feel like a baby, being pushed around by Juan on the surf board all the time. It is for getting me into good positions for the waves.

With the rapid succession of waves, it quickly amounts to a fair amount of paddling — this is turning into a great training session. Unfortunately, sometime during the session, I somehow stretched my right hip flexor. I spend the rest of the day walking, stretching, and relaxing. Hopefully it is better tomorrow as I have another group session scheduled for 8:00 a.m.

15 October — Wednesday

New day, more surfing. Today we go for some bigger waves, and now I’m struggling a bit. I have to jump up on the board much faster now, which is difficult, and I’m also hampered by my right hip flexor.

In Huanchaco, the waves break everywhere so there is no going around the wave, you have to paddle straight at them. Juan teaches me to roll the board when facing large waves, i.e., turn on my back with the board on top of me and let the wave roll over. The times I do catch a good wave, it is a lot of work to get back out on the deep water. Much effort, little joy ;).

While we are waiting for a wave, a pelican comes flying right in front of us, it was a sight to behold. My first ever pelican spotting.

The rest of the day I engage in resting and the only remedy I know for heeling my minor injuries, walking.

16 October — Thursday

Early morning walk session north out of Huanchaco. No surfing today, my hip flexor really requires some rest. I walk the whole morning — 4-5 km north of Huanchaco there are actually some really nice secluded beaches without any dogs! — and rest for the remainder of the day

I’m starting to become a little bored. When injured there is not all too much to do in Huanchaco, except running to the local market and feast on strawberries which cost 5 soles per kilogram, and are freaking delicious. You can, of course also watch the sunsets.

17 October — Friday

Time to surf again! Now my hip flexor feels much better and my surfing technique is improving. Good day!

18 October — Saturday

More surfing! Starting to feel really good on the surf board. However, it is still much effort for little joy. My shoulders, arms and back are starting to get really sore from all the paddling.

In the afternoon I take the bus to go see Chan Chan, the largest city of the pre-Colombian area, and capital of the Chimor kingdom. Entrance cost 10 soles. I actually thought it was pretty cool, much of the city has been excavated and you can easily walk around for a couple of hours.

While walking along the road towards the bus, after having finished exploring Chan Chan, I’m starting to feel a bit parched. And there he is, standing next to the road, selling massive coconuts filled with delicious coconut water. Oh boy, that clenched my thirst and made my day. I love fresh coconut water.

19 October — Sunday

More surfing, more improvements. Actually a really good day today. Starting to enjoy this more and more. I now know I will really enjoy surfing if I manage to get a bit better.

Today I met another US peace core volunteer working with water sanitation. Seems to be a lot of them running around.

In the afternoon I try paddling a Caballitos de Totora — a reed watercraft that has been used by Peruvian fishermen for 3000 years. I went to the beach and rented one for 1 hour, it cost 70 soles. It was pretty fun, but the renters do not let you paddle very far due to the high waves, which resulted in me paddling in circles (not that fun).

As a comment, Huanchaco really comes alive during the weekend evenings. Both Saturday and Sunday evening, the beaches and streets were full of people and businesses selling street food. It was a very festive environment.

20 October — Monday

Last day of surfing (in Huanchaco)! Unfortunately there is something with surfing that my right hip-flexor does not like. Over the last four days it has become progressively worse, hindering me from surfing as much as I would like. I intend to have one more surf period during the course of my travels, hopefully the problem does not persist.

I really recommend Point Break Hostel if you want to surf in Peru. It is a great place and Juan is a fantastic teacher. Now, time to find a Richard Nixon mask and rob some banks!

After leaving Huanchaco I take a series of buses to go Salaverry. Here I will try sandboarding — snowboarding on sand dunes. Point Break Hostel has a cooperation with a guy (I cannot remember his name) in Salaverry that takes you sandboarding for 2 hours for 60 soles. All money goes towards a youth charity project he is running. I did not understand the details due to “language barriers”.

It is my first time on a snowboard, and it is not the best of snowboards. Instead of snowboard boats, you are strapped in, and the foot brackets are not fully screwed tight. It is more of a challenge this way.

You do not require the best equipment to have an absolute blast. Turns out I’m actually quite good at snowboarding (sandboarding). I have no issues going down the sandy slopes in style. The only negative is that there are no lifts. It is like surfing, much effort for little joy.

While sandboarding I get to witness a Peruvian funeral. It is actually quite a festive event, with a lot of music that I consider as “happy music”.

I sandboard until the sunset. When I’m done, the guy invites me to play basketball with him and his friends. It sounds like fun and I first say yes, I then take a few steps and realize my right hip flexor will not allow me to play basketball. Instead I check-in at a hotel. Tomorrow it is back to Trujillo to catch an overnight bus to Chachapoyas.

It is possible to sandboard in other places in Peru with more proper equipment, longer slopes and an improvised lift in the form of a beach buggy. Definitely something to consider if going somewhere this is offered.

21 October — Tuesday

I start the morning by walking to the wetlands south of Salaverry, where flamingos are known to nest. And sure enough, I get to spot hundreds of pink dots.

I then take the bus to Trujillo and purchase a bus ticket to Chachapoyas with the bus company Movil. The bus departs at 15:15 and it’s about a 15 h long ride. It will be good with a long rest to prepare for what I believe (and hope) to be intense days in Chachapoyas.