The Greater Patagonian Trail Section 09, Volcan Antuco, 26-27/12 2025

An Introduction to the Greater Patagonian Trail (GPT) can be found HERE.

26 December — Friday

Having connected to GPT 09 from GPT 08 around 14:00, I now have about 5 kilometers to go to route Q-45 and my potential exit — I’m sick as a dog, see previous post. However, as I make it to the road, I do not feel absolutely terrible anymore. I still feel bad, my legs are hurting but I’m not feeling like I’m going to vomit at any moment.

I decided to push on onto GPT 09, but instead of taking the high altitude ridge route, I’m taking a slightly shorter and lower altitude valley route. The valley route has many more potential campsites to choose from in case I would suffer from another cramp attack. 

Nothing to complain about regarding the valley route though, it is absolutely lovely. I continue walking until I feel my quads and calfs are about to give in, at which I pitch my tent and fall deeply asleep. I now have about 15 kilometers to go tomorrow to reach Trapa Trapa and conclude GPT 09. At Trapa Trapa I will find some lodging and rest for the rest of the day tomorrow. How I feel after one day of rest will decide whether I embark on GPT 10 or not. 

All in all, neglecting my physical struggles, today was actually a perfect day of hiking. Nothing to complain about. It did certainly give me a mental boost, if the horse fly situation would have been similar to yesterday, I believe I would have broken down at route Q-45. 

27 December — Saturday

Not feeling great today, but not terrible. It was a nice walk to Trapa Trapa, mostly downhill, but on loose rocks. For the first time so far I met another hiker, another GPT hiker nonetheless, Sebastian from Argentina. We chatted for a while and exchanged numbers. He is biking part of the GPT, the few parts you can bike. While I met him, he was pushing his bike up the trail. 

In Trappa Trappa everything is closed. I later learned it was because most people were away celebrating Nguillatún (spelling uncertain), a Mapuche (indigenous people) holiday. I later found their gathering. They had built some simple huts, which they stay in for three days, eat, drink, sacrifice some goats, and widen their senses with shrooms, as I understood it. All in all, no accommodation for me. 

However, I met a group of scouts from the Chilean city Los Angeles who were in town to arrange a Christmas party for the towns, and surrounding towns, children. It was volunteer work, bringing presents to kids in rural communities. The scouts invited me to lunch, the Christmas party (I served as a first class photographer) and dinner. A few of the scouts spoke quite good English, especially all around good guy Nicolas. 

After the Christmas party we went down to the river to take an evening bath before having dinner. For dinner I got to sample the Chilean dish Completos, a Chilean type of hot dog with guacamole. I ate a lot of guacamole, like a lot. Avocados are after all one of the best foods in life. 

My plan of taking a relaxing rest day did not exactly go as planned, not going to bed until midnight, but I had a great time. This is one of the many reasons why I love Chile so far, everyone is nice to me. 

I cannot claim to be in great shape, but I’m embarking on GPT10 tomorrow with the goal of hiking 33 kilometers, a distance I a few days ago would have considered a rest day but now feels like a monumental challenge. Stay tuned to see how tomorrow transpires. 

My Route With Campsites