The Greater Patagonian Trail Section 12, Rio Rahue, 5-8/1 2026
An Introduction to the Greater Patagonian Trail (GPT) can be found HERE.
5 January — Monday
Having connected to GPT 12 from GPT 11 around none, via a difficult alternative route, I’m already about 10 kilometers into the section — most of these 10 initial kilometers are just a transport road walk, and is why I favored skipping them. At this point on GPT 12, the trail stops and I now have to continue walking cross country. Although this cross country walk is much less demanding than the shortcut connecting GPT 11 and 12. Now I mostly hike on either flat or moderately steep, not to loose, gravel.
Almost immediately after connecting to GPT 12 I managed to score my first wildlife photography in Chile — cattle does not count — a pair of geese resting in a shallow pool of water.
After a few kilometers of hiking, the route (ridge, I’m following) makes a slight journey into Argentina. I have now visited four countries during my South American travels, five if counting my two layovers in Bogota, Colombia. I later come by a very old border marking, it is not commensurate with my GPS map. According to the border marking, I was pretty far into Argentina.
While hiking the ridge, there is a short section where the wind is really strong and, consequently, there is very few horseflies, but not zero. I consider this to my best opportunity for a break and lunch. Being constantly swarmed by horseflies really wears you down mentally and physically, it is mentally exhausting to the point of being straight out stressful. These short breaks from the bombardment are refilling.
As I start descending into another valley, the horsefly situation is much improved. Instead of swarms there is about 10 at a time, not great, but more manageable. I have my eyes set for a hot-spring. As I arrive, there is a wild-campsite with benches, a fireplace, logs to secure horses, and an outdoor toilet (unfortunately locked). The place, according to the sign, is called Los Cuyucos. Now, my hopes of finding a bathable hot spring is very high. At first, though, I’m very disappointed. The hot spring shown by my map is rather disgusting. Based on that, and considering it is still relatively early in the day, I decide to continue hiking after refilling my water bottles. As I walk down to the river, I notice a small shack. Curious of what that might be, I go to have a look. And score! It is another hot spring, and this one is perfect. That settles it, I’m camping here tonight. Hot springs aside, the area also has rather few horseflies and provides shade for me to pitch my tent in, allowing me to avoid another sauna session. After pitching my tent, I went bathing for almost an hour. Perfection!
Despite the very difficult terrain today, it became a rather relaxing day. All in the spirit of not excessively damaging my feet. So far my feet and my new shoes feel pretty good, with the minor issue that the shoes are slightly tight around the toes, and some toenails might be in the danger zone. Today was another day on the GPT where I didn’t see another person.
I set a new record today: One smash, five kills. My shirt is becoming really stained by the blood of my enemies.
6 January — Tuesday
Much to my delight, the valley I’m descending into this morning is completely void of horseflies, for reasons I do not comprehend. Why are there no horseflies at all in some valleys and completely swarming in others? If I can figure this out I know where to hike in the future 😉
The valley walk is mostly cross country hiking with the occasional vague animal path to follow. Gone are the cowardly cows. These cows are not scared at all, on the contrary, they seem to be pretty aggressive. At one time I had a bull charging me. Luckily it stopped when I started running, seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword. That minor inconvenience aside, it is a nice and tranquil hike.
At Lake Marinanqui, my plan is lunch. The northern side, at which I arrive first, is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. And so lunch here is decided, and an afternoon nap.
After lunch, the route leaves the valley climbing upwards. Now my old nemesis, the horseflies are back. But it is not too troublesome, there is only one or two at a time and there is now a very clear and easy to hike path.
As I depart from the big path to make my way up another valley, I can swear I hear the faint sound of an engine. Sure enough, after a couple of minutes Abel and his two sons Martin (nice name) and Daniel showed up behind me on two motocross and one ATV. They tell me to hop on. Hell yeah! But my happiness was short lived, after about 200 meters the trail deteriorated significantly. Daniel pushes the ATV about 300 meters more, but that is it. Back to walking.
Daniel and I walk together for a couple of kilometers, while his brother and father speeds ahead on the ATVs. They are going to a rock formation, called Piedra del Sapo (frog rock) and then back the same way. After saying goodbye to the guys I hiked for about 3 kilometers more to my intended campsite. However, I’m a bit disappointed with it — the ground is wet and soggy. Instead I dropped some elevation, hoping to find something better further down the valley. I found something acceptable, but not great.
Early tuk-in to prepare for tomorrows strenuous effort. The day will start with a 1000 meter cross-country ascend. Hopefully there will be no thick clouds tomorrow.
7 January — Wednesday
Up, up, and away! It is a grueling climb; loose sand and rock, and much much bushes to penetrate. At last, the 1000 meter ascent is over. At the top, I was expecting to find a big lake — according to the map there was supposed to be one — where I could refill my water bottle. At first, the lake seems to be completely dried out, but when I come closer I spot a tiny pond in the far south side that still remains. Lucky me, I get to drink after all.
After a short break, I climb some more before immediately descending into another valley. Down in the valley, several people have puestos and are currently there to attend to their animals. Most of them are very friendly, as always, and ask me where I’m going, where I’m from, my name, if I would like some water, etc. Whenever I say that I’m hiking alone, they are always a bit surprised and impressed. This has always been the case when answering the question “Are you hiking solo?” With “yes”. It seems solo hiking is not very common in Chile, yet again given that I have only met one other hiker so far (Sebastian on GPT9), hiking does not seem that common either.
After hiking some in the valley and talking with the locals it is time to ascend again. Slightly less this time tough, about 500 meters and initially the route follows a well used animal trail. At first I believed this to good to be true, and turns out it was, soon the bushwhacking starts again.
And down I go again to another valley. My favorite valley of the day in fact, as suddenly the horseflies disappear. Not that they have been that much of nuisance today, only two-three at a time. Down in the valley, todays bushwhacking adventures are over, now I have a dirt road to follow for the remaining five kilometers to Laguna Escondida where I will camp and bath.
Also, when I enter the valley at around 5 pm, I start hearing thunder. My Garmin GPS forecast had indeed forecasted a 30 % probability of rain and thunder between 5 pm to 9 pm. The thunder and rain stayed in the neighboring valley until 8 pm giving me time to make the last climb of the day to Laguna Escondida, find a reasonable place to pitch my tent, it was kind of hard finding any spot at all actually, and go bathing. Afterwards I sit outside for a while, enjoying the lack of horseflies. But of course after about 30 minutes they find me, nothing too troublesome though, it is like one every 5 minutes. I make sure to smash it immediately and then enjoy some peace and quit until the next one arrives.
At around 8 pm, the storm made its way to my location with full force. I was a bit worried about the tent for a few minutes as it did not only rain, it hailed. And the initial ice balls were massive, as they hit the tent it went BOOM! Shortly after however more moderately sized ice balls started falling and I went back to reading and finishing my book, Pride and Prejudice. Spoilers! Elizabeth ends up marrying Mr. Darcy. Who could have possibly anticipated such (not so) unexpected turn of events.
Almost exactly on the minute (9 PM) the thunder stops, the rain lingers for a few minutes longer. I’m genuinely impressed by the Garmin weather forecasts, the forecasts have never been wrong so far. I might keep my Garmin GPS subscription just to have reliable weather forecasts.
8 January — Thursday
Last day on GPT 12. Today I will hike the last 28 kilometers to Liucura and finish GPT 12.
Starting off with another beautiful morning, I make my way to the last cross country climb of this section. On the way, I passed a puesto with four extremely aggressive dogs. They follow me for a really long time, making several lunges towards me. The inconsiderate owner makes no attempt recalling his attack dogs.
After the last climb, I made my way down to Laguna Verde for an early lunch before pressing on the last kilometers, mostly walking on dirt roads. That is it. I’m now in Liucura. From here I will go to Pucon, skipping sections 13 to 15.
Asking around a bit in town for a bus to Temuco, from where I will take another bus to Pucon, I’m met with several different answers. The most reliable, and the correct one as it turns out, was the policeman. He said that it departs tomorrow at 07:10 — he was almost right. I found a cheap (15 000 CLP), but good, hostel to spend the night. When removing my socks I noticed I had acquired quite the severe chaffing — finally some use for those compeeds I have been carrying for nearly four months. My feet in general do not feel too good either, they sure took a lot of damage on the previous hikes.
My Route With Campsites